My friend for the day in front of Arenal
It is 530am in San Jose, the sun has kissed the hills surrounding the city and the vendors are opening their gates to the morning commuters. I am sitting in the bus terminal with an empanada in my hand (so cheap and so good) waiting for the driver to open the doors for us heading to La Fortuna. After about an hour or so and we have left the outer limits of the capitol and I see a sign that says “El norte, nuestra tierra” (The north is our land) and as we climb higher into the mountains I see sprawls of coffee hills and cow pastures. Towns turn smaller and smaller, into communities with no more than a grocery/mini mart while houses come harder to spot, with more shacks, sheds, and cows than anything else.
The air has been filled with a relaxing breeze as we escape from the urban capital. The farther we get away, the more friendly honks and exchanges I see. I counted 10 honks and hellos from our bus driver in one little town we drove past, a great contrast from the honks I heard in San Jose; one coming every second you held up traffic or in the way. Here and in Guanacaste as well, honks are used as a friendly call, with two short beeps I could hear ‘hey! Goodmorning, hope life is going well’.
More rolling hills and farms and we were in La Fortuna, at the base of volcano Arenal, one of most active in Central America. I was not impressed with what could be a very cool and hip town, La Fortuna was a complete tourist hotspot with dozens of ‘souvenir’ shops and expensive hotel/resorts. So I was thankful to get the transport to my hostel quickly, I already had enough of the crowded streets and merchant shops this trip. Essence Arenal was the name of the hostel I was to stay at, and once we arrived I took a deep breath and was in heaven. On the opposite side of the volcano and perched on a hill overlooking the conical volcano and its gigantic lake, this place was a real escape. The owner, Kelly, was a really helpful guy, making sure every person had every detail perfected for their stay. I stayed in a tent/room that had a cement floor and a double sized bed. I immediately took several shots of the mostly clear day and started on a hike. Up and up I went. Past a little Tico community and over another lookout with tourists riding some horses while others grazed some grass on the hill (the horses that is). There I met up with my friend for the day; a beagle with a hanging tongue and a deep cut on his side. We continued on the horse trail and into a forest filled with huge butterflies and an array of sounds coming from the bush. For several miles we hiked until we ran into a farm that contained enough no trespassing signs to turn away the dog. But I knew a great view was around the corner so I scrambled under the barb wire and took a look. It was getting cloudy but I could see edges of valleys cutting into each other and streams popping out of their hills. I later learned on a clear day one can see to Lake Nicaragua and the surrounding volcanoes.
The next day I went for a hike with two Swiss women and two Frenchmen up Cerro Chato, a dormant volcano next door to Arenal. The lagoon in the volcanoes’ crater was worth the trip and the spring river (100 degrees F) was a perfect end. But our driver to and from the activities that day may have been the highlight. A bright and full bellied man, Eduardo was more than happy to talk about his people and his views on happiness. “Here we have no problems, life is simple because of it, we are happy” he tells me. “We live in a beautiful place, with volcanoes, rivers and lots of beauty to see”. I ask him what he thinks about San Jose to the south. “People are crazy there, they honk and push to move faster, here we are slow and honk to be happy.” I smile.
“Eduardo, I have spent some time in Guanacaste and on the coast and I have heard the same things about happiness there.”
“Yes, I can see there are similarities, but not quite the same. I think we are a little more introverted with our thoughts here and have a lot of religious/spiritual ties to the land. But in both places, problems are few compared to other places.”
Too soon my time near the volcano is over and I headed to Monteverde and the cloud forest reserves. I take a boat ride with a couple of New Yorkers I have befriended and meet a socal college grad on the ride to the other side of the lake. A laid back dude named Robert who has been traveling the country for nearly two months. The ride from the lake to Monteverde was filled with gravel, bumpy, steep roads that criss-crossed the country side, dipping through little towns and coffee country.
The town of Monteverde is what I thought La Fortuna would be; not too big, a lot of local art and color, and cheap places to stay. I got a $6 dorm room run by a couple of Texans and hit the streets. As I walked out of town and towards a small art community down the road I felt this to be a more spiritual place than my other travels in Costa Rica. I ate at a great soda in the back of an art co-op that was running on a wood fire kitchen. Just down the road there was a dairy plantation (with great ice cream) and more art studios. I hiked on back roads and saw unique houses that reminded me of the west coast; surrounded by trees and plants, small but with loads of character. When I got back to the hostel I was notified by Judy that things back in Potrero were not going smoothly. Thus I went on an adventure to get an international calling card that no one in town knew how to use, but the five people I asked were all very nice, and eventually the guy working the hostel knew you had to hit 1 before everything else.
After our chat, I ran into Robert whom I met on the boat and we grabbed something to eat. We ended up sitting outside and talking for nearly two hours. As a fellow young traveler we talked about the different parts of Costa Rica, places to stay, and a lot of happiness. First he was skeptical about deeming Costa Rica the happiness country, but after a good exchange we agreed on the relativeness of it all. “How can we really assess happiness?” he asked. “Well, that’s a good question isn’t it?” we both laughed. “But that’s half of book, what can qualify as a substantial measurement to something that varies so much between each person?” I answered. “Exactly man. Just a few days ago I saw some kids riding bikes meant for me and you, I mean they weren’t were trying to sit on seat, they barely fit on the crossbar.” He paused “and if you think about it, if an American kid had a bike that was that big, they wouldn’t even try to ride it, they would complain and get a bike that fit them.”
“You know what’s one underlying thing I have noticed here, the happiest people I have talked to,” I paused “they aren’t striving for anything more than they have, in a sense they are only eating what’s on their plate.”
“Exactly man.”
The next morning I packed up my bag and went for a hike in the Santa Ana cloud forest reserve. A beautiful early morning turned into a rain forest worthy downpour. I had to sneak under a tree to get temporary relief. I thought ‘why did I come all the way here to go on a Washington hike?’ but as I saw centipedes and tropical birds heading for cover my question was answered. Although the rain did not halt, I got a good view of a misty cloud forest from a tower and was surrounded with an aura of mystery in the air.
“But even here, the influence of tourism was unmistakable. The only Tico’s I saw were the construction workers building a new area for reception. The majority of hikers went with a tour guide equipped with a telescope, a shovel and planned stopping points to talk about the flora and fauna. “ I am on the bus heading west with Matt, a native of Austin, Texas who just got accepted into law school while traveling around Central America. “It’s everywhere.” He says “you can tell some people are really getting tired of it, some have even told me.” The owner of the hostel in San Jose mentioned the animosity some hold for tourists here. “I mean think about it” he continues “how would you feel if your town was based on people coming in from another culture and stomping around, changing businesses and restaurants to cater towards them?” Growing up in a small town that would have summer day tourists come, I could relate. “But” I said, “People adapt. It’s in our DNA, just look at the thriving economy that has come to meet it here. I certainly wouldn’t like it but, but I wouldn’t let it control my life, especially in such a beautiful place.”
This thought brought me back to another talk earlier that day. As I walked around the town waiting for the bus, I decided to see another side of town, and found myself in a tourist shop that look very typical to the many I have seen in Costa Rica. Right before I decide to make my way out, the owner, a young Tico with his son, approached me. “Hablas espanol?” he asks. “A veces” (at times) I respond, they get a chuckle out of that. He tells me his name is Alberto and he is trying to learn English online. We talk about the challenges of learning a new language and about his son and their future in Monteverde. When he asks me what I’m doing in Costa Rica, his eyes light up and I ask “estas feliz?”
He tells me he is very happy. Why? “En Monteverde, hay no problemas y vida es tranquila.” (There are no problems in Monteverde and life is relaxed, easy.). Then his friend walks in, Juan. “This guy is researching happiness in Costa Rica” Alberto says. “No way! Hey man, I’m happy, you want to know why?” I like the sound of this. “In this area of Costa Rica, happiness depends on three things” he held out his closed palm, “physical, one, mental, two, spiritual, three”. Nearly an hour later we have touched on religion, spirituality, the self, and of course, happiness. My Spanish got an ego boost in the last couple of hours, although I’m mostly just listening. Juan grew up in a religious, catholic, household like many other TIco’s he tells me. “Then one day, I decided you should decide for yourself if you want to be religious. So I stopped going to church.” He continued “then I really thought about it and saw I needed god in my life, and that we all need god. We all need someone to talk to, during the good and the bad, and every night I talk with him.” In Costa Rica they often refer to Jesus as El or simply, him. So I ask him “how do you know everyone has to know god?” “Well, how do you know yourself then?” He asks “Where do you start? Who do you ask?” “Myself” I say and point at my chest.
“Who?”
“Who?”
“Me”
“Who?”
“Me. How can I know anybody else if I don’t know myself first?” I decided to elaborate a little more, pushing my Spanish. “If I can ask myself the hard questions, I can be happy for simply being alive and taking on problems by myself.”
“Ok then” he says “that’s great”
Happiness really is relative, the more I travel the country the more I can see that. Now I sit poolside in Potrero. Just a couple of days ago there was a crisis here and the house sitters were asked to leave. Trust is important, I see again. The sun has poked its head out the last couple of days and I have fully accepted the relaxed Tico lifestyle; lounging in the pool and ocean, writing and being simply happy. But I can’t stop thinking about the mystery of traveling. It is great to have both; times to wake up with the rest of the day open to any adventure and others to process and reflect. I am fascinated by the contrasts I see in the different parts of a country no bigger than West Virginia. What do the other parts I have not trekked hold? What about the Carribean? Are they happy there, and why? A topic with this much breadth needs to be walked from many shoes, talked by many voices.